Thursday, September 4, 2014

The Village That Time (Almost) Forgot (Sharon Springs, NY) August 2014



Traveling off the beaten path, or more accurately, traveling over from the current GPS-guided route to an old well-worn path took me to a place that time seems to have forgot.

From Rt. 20 in the Springfield, NY area (yes I added a Spfld. to my "find all the Spfld.'s in the US" list) I took a left turn onto Rt. 10. Now if you've never been in the NY area off of the big routes, let me tell you- you can quickly get into smaller and smaller towns, yet larger and larger tracts of vast rolling hilled farm land. And while this is a lovely view that often stuns the eye and affords some great shots, after a while it gets redundant. The Amish provided a break in the redundancy, but then they too were gone. So near Cooperstown, at the intersection of Rt. 20 and 10, I took a left as a way to wend to Canajoharie, NY to see the now defunct huge Beechnut Plant (since I was after all on the "Rust Never Sleeps" tour).

I couldn't tell you how far I got when I came upon this,
"Oh how quaint", I thought. Because after all, Villages really are quaint, that's the whole purpose of the term in my mind. So I wended along wondering where the water source was, and if the springs would be operational and touristy like in Southwestern Colorado. 

Sharon Springs is a sulfur bath resort town in Central NY. Development as a mineral water spa began in 1825 with the establishment of David Eldredge's boarding house. Several large hotels and boarding houses were built and by 1841 the village had become world famous.


What I found was more like a broken down ghost town. A few bizarre tidbits about the place:

  • Population is about 550 residents
  • There is a Sharon Springs, Kansas that was founded by former members of this town.
  • There are/were sulfur, magnesium, and chalybeate (impregnated with salts and iron) springs in the town.
  • At its peak the village hosted 10,000 visitors each summer. By contrast, on this overcast gray day in August 2014, it hosted one-me!
  • This once fashionable spa village was mainly host to fashionable wealthy Jewish families of German origin who were not welcome at the OTHER fashionable and popular spa resorts of Saratoga Springs, NY due to the prevailing social bias of the time.
  • Sharon Springs village is low income meaning there is a disproportionately large percentage of households that have an annual income under $25,000.
  • Prohibition and the opening of the NY State Thruway both acted to kill the village in the early 20th century.

What I saw as I drove thru:



Prohibition may have helped kill business in the early 20th century, but this old inn-looking alcohol establishment looks as if it is trying to bring the business back in the early 21st century. 

Am unsure if this is one of the Kuchaleyans that flourished from 1920's thru 1960's. These were self-catered boarding houses, and in Yiddish the name means "cook-alones." They were a more affordable alternative to the larger more expensive hotels and were especially popular during the depression and, later, with poorer post-war European refugees. Or the home could be a Hasidim guest house, I am unsure if these are the same thing. The Hasidim Jew's were later arrivers who re-inhabited some of the hotel and guest houses that had seen their heydays earlier in the 20th century.
This brick building was built in 1910. It operated as the Smith, Empie & Smith Department Store until the 1950's. Later it was run as a variety store, grocery store and soda fountain. In the 1960's and early 1970's, it was occupied by a mail order company and still later, as an art gallery. It is now used as an antique shop.
Klinkhardt Hall was built in 1884. It is located on the corner of Main Street and Division Street. The building is made of brick. Originally it was a combination of an upstairs opera house and a downstairs hardware store. After a fire in 1911, in which Mrs. Klinkhardt was killed by an exploding can, the Masons bought the building. Masonic Lodge rooms were on the second floor and Smalley's Movie Theatre was on the first floor. The building is no longer in use.The Sharon Historical Society received a grant in 1994 for historical recognition of the spa area. Approximately 180 buildings have been granted National Historic Place status. Today, Sharon Springs continues to operate as a mineral waters spa with a small clientele of primarily Hasidic and Russian Jews, however on a much smaller scale than in the glory days of Sharon Springs.
They're trying...

But it doesn't look good

They got as far as a "Welcome to"


Chalybeate Temple
The Chalybeate Spring contains iron and was especially beneficial for treating anemia. The Chalybeate waters reputedly had enough iron salts to turn one's teeth brown, nevertheless it was bottled and sold for its medicinal use. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Temple has been renovated and summer concerts are held in the park.





Sulphur Temple
In 1927, Alfred Gardner built the beaux-arts style White Sulphur Temple that replaced an earlier one. This elaborate, classical, and octagonal temple features eight fluted columns topped by plaster Corinthian capitals, which support an elaborate cornice decorated with brackets shaped like acanthus leaves and dentils. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the temple is open to the public; there is no charge to drink the mineral water. The sulphur water is 48 degrees Fahrenheit and flows freely year around.
Magnesia Temple
The most unique of Sharon Springs temples is the elaborately ornamental, domed Magnesia Temple. In 1860, a man of wealth, Henry J. Bang, began beautifying the grounds around the springs by building arbors, temples and laying out walks. The Magnesia Temple, ca. 1863, is the only remaining structure of the Congress Hall complex which once included bathhouses, a bandstand, and gardens. The triangular pediment, dentils in the cornice, and Corinthian columns identify it as Renaissance Revival. Stone steps lead to the fountain where famously refreshing and medicinal magnesia waters once spouted from the mouths of the twin stone lion heads. Over 140 years later, the temple, although in need of repair, still symbolizes the spa's glorious past. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the temple is located on the grounds of a private residence.







Imperial Baths
The Imperial Bathhouse was opened July 1, 1927. It is located in the center of Sharon Springs Historic District. It offered sulphur baths, massages and mud treatments to relieve pain and as a cure for a variety of illnesses. As many as 5000 treatments could be given in a single day. It is still open during the summer. Although in advanced deterioration today, one of the original 1876 bath-houses remain, the other having been demolished in the early 1960’s. The architectural historic integrity of the remaining bath is remarkably intact with most of its tubs and oiled hardwood walls.

Now, there were a few updated and functioning places in the village. Chief among them is the American Hotel.

It is a large, 3 12-story wood frame structure built between 1847 and 1851 in the Greek Revival style. It features a recessed 2-story porch with a colonnade of eight pillars with Doric order capitals supporting the roof. 
Okay, now here comes another oddity about the town: The hotel and owners Doug Plummer and Garth Roberts appear in the reality television series The Fabulous Beekman Boys, which takes place in Sharon Springs. The series debuted in June 2010.

I found this poster on the, of course closed, Historical Society building. More on this:

The series follows Josh Kilmer-Purcell and his husband Brent Ridge as they learn how to become farmers and launch their lifestyle brand, Beekman 1802. Brent, a physician who previously worked for Martha Stewart Omnimedia, lives at the farm full-time, while Josh, a New York Times bestselling author, commutes from their apartment in New York City on the weekends. The show originally aired on Planet Green, one of the Discovery Networks, but was acquired by Cooking Channel, a network owned by Scripps Network Interactive in 2012.
Touted as a "gay Green Acres",[1] the series chronicles the couple's trials and tribulations as novice farmers, aided by their caretaker and resident farmer John Hall, or "Farmer John." Hall brought his goats to the Beekman Farm shortly after Ridge and Kilmer-Purcell purchased it in 2007. Also featured is Polka Spot, the farm's llama. Other residents of Sharon Springs, New York are also included in the cast, including Doug Plummer and Garth Roberts, owners of the American Hotel.
On August 9, 2010, Planet Green announced that The Fabulous Beekman Boys had been renewed for a second season of ten episodes. In announcing the renewal, Laura Michalchyshyn, President and General Manager of Planet Green, noted that the series "has quickly established itself as a cornerstone franchise for Planet Green".[2] The second season began on March 22, 2011.[3]
Planet Green declined to renew The Fabulous Beekman Boys for a third season based on low ratings.[4] However, Cooking Channel announced in April 2012 that it had picked up the series for a third season. The channel plans to repeat the first two seasons with additional footage as well.[5] The pair also participated in the 21st season of The Amazing Race, ultimately becoming the season's grand prize winners.
Well now I have some good diggings and winter watching to do, now don't I!?! Who'da thunk it? How'd I found it? Oh journeying, journeying.
But that's not all folks, because even though a pop. of >1,000, the town has like 170 historic buildings listed (how they are ever going to get them all in shape w/ a pop. deemed poverty-stricken is beyond me (although I think I read somewhere about Korean investors or something). So let's travel on.

I feel bad that I passed up this seemingly only open and functioning establishment for a cup of Joe (although I think I could've also grabbed a gallon or 8 of booze earlier up the street, but alas...I bypassed these establishments because I was astounded by the rot and decay.





The Roseboro Hotel is located on the southeast corner of Main Street and Washington Street. The 1850's Howland House, The 1896 Rosenberg Hotel and the 1870's Rosenberg House, were joined with connecting additions in 1900 to form the Roseboro hotel current 45,000 square foot building. The Roseboro hotel had 135 rooms, (but only 27 bathrooms!) one of the first sprinkler systems and a 1939 Otis Elevator.
Between 1904 and 1909, the old Howland House, on Main Street, and the Rosenboro Hotel, on Washington Street, were joined into one large hotel and renamed the Roseboro Hotel. The building has a number of Queen Anne and Colonial Revival style decorations, including the porch rails and the wood sunburst over the main entrance. It was closed during the 1960's. It is now being restored by current owners Dawne Belloise and Dominic Giacomo. 
This structure adjacent to the side of the Roseboro on Washington St. is operating as a B&B called The TurnAround Spa Lodge. Their billing makes me want to come back and stay for a night (or two):
This fine lodge with six comfortable quiet guest rooms in a lovely mountain side rural village setting will soften any stress while nature begins your restoration!
 On premise is a private library which includes Dr. White's original books on Health and Healing.
The private Jacuzzi room and individual mint steam bath are available to our guests.
Only steps away are three different mineral water fountains.
"Stylishly Relaxed"
Saturday evenings are formal comfortable.
Those seeking Escape & luxury of quiet and rejuvenation will find this the perfect affordable destination! 
Basic room w/o services for two starts at $45 per night.
Deluxe package is $135 per night for two persons.
Includes;
* Internet
* Herbal Jacuzzi
* Mint steam sessions
* Massage or body rub
* Spa treatments are priced on duration
Hey, it's no Berkshires Canyon Ranch or Lake Austin Spa Resort, but sure looks like a "bang your buck" and great exploring spot to me! I am bookmarking this and dragging hubby back someday. I bet it is spectacular in the fall.





The Columbia Hotel
The Columbia primarily catered to New York City's Jewish population following the second World War. After the decline of the Borscht Belt region (a Jewish , much of the town catered in particular to Orthadox and Hasidic Jews; the Columbia was one of several hotels that did so, adapting all kitchen facilities to follow Kosher law, and removing the televisions from the establishment.

Unlike the Adler, the Columbia was primarily a long-term hotel; rooms were rented by the week (at an average of $140 per in 1977). Except for the tiny economy rooms on the top floor, every room came with a kitchen across the hall; guests of the hotel would be given keys to both. There was some light evening entertainment offered at the Columbia; noted Ukrainian dance musician Michael Skorr performed there for 18 consecutive summers. However, many guests would opt to head over to the Adler for the more elaborate comedy shows and vaudeville acts featured over there. Like the Adler, the Columbia shuttered its doors after the 2004 season; its fate remains in the air.
 Poor, poor Adler! In such a state of disrepair. Word is though that in 2004 NYC investment group purchased this property as well as the Colimbia and Washington Hotels.
 Adler Hotel 
The Adler Hotel was the last large hotel built in Sharon Springs. It opened in 1929 and cost $250,000. The Adler Hotel has a capacity for 150 guests. It has a ballroom and its own mineral bath facility. It is a four-story mission style building with a large center gable. 
 From Kingston Lounge blog spot: 
The Adler was once a bustling resort town built upon a natural mineral spring. It was thought that the high levels of sulphur, magnesium, and iron in the water provided a variety of health benefits, the exact specifications of which varied widely over the years. By the end of the 19th century, it was a highly fashionable escape from New York; patrons included the Vanderbilts and Oscar Wilde. By the time of the Depression, there were more than a dozen resort hotels operating out of the town, alongside a highly regarded golf course, a number of bath houses, and other amenities common to resorts of the era.

Among the last of these built was the Adler, which first opened its doors in 1927. Already the town was fading; Saratoga Springs was competing for, and for the most part winning, the patronage of the prestigious. Add to this the economic hardships of the Depression, which happened only a few years after the hotel was built, and the hotel was economically troubled from the beginning.

But after World War 2, the town again came into prominence, now as a getaway spot for wealthy German Jews, who were not welcomed easily at Saratoga. In 1946, Ed Koch, future mayor of New York, bussed tables at the Adler. The town was again booming, and the kitchens in all of the old resort hotels were made Kosher; in a phenomenon not unlike the Borscht Belt of lower New York, Sharon Springs became a major Jewish escape.

But the decline of resorts in general, as well as the building of the New York State Thruway, which bypassed Sharon Springs, took their toll. One by one, the resort hotels and bath houses closed; the Adler was among the last to shut its doors, in 2004. Since then, little has changed there - the occasional vandal has sadly snuck in, and there is graffiti vandalism throughout various areas of the hotel, including the grand dining room. But things are looking up for the hotel - unlike other notable Sharon Springs hotels, such as the Pavilion and the Washington, it was not demolished; now it has been purchased by a group which plans to restore it (as well as the Imperial Baths and the Columbia Hotel) and remake Sharon Springs into a resort community once again. Hopefully, this grand five-story Spanish Revival building will once again see life.
to see more pictures on both the Columbia + Adler Hotel, go to this link:
http://kingstonlounge.blogspot.com/2010/04/hotel-columbia-sharon-springs-ny.html


This is the mystery sight. It was peeking thru at the top of the hill next to the Adler. However, there were quite a few "Do Not Trespass" signs and a rope strung across the remains of a road, disallowing one to travel further.
I don't know if this is the remains of something that was a part of the Adler, or a private residence, or a farm, hunting lodge, another Inn??? It has made me crazy for a week. I am abandoning hope of ever finding out. I have searched and searched. The most amazing thing I think I found in all this is how many, many, many others like me take to the roads in search of our abandoned heritage. Lots of blogs and/or photographers capturing the decay. Wonder what it is we have in us that enjoys these types of journeys? I don't know, can't articulate it, but I just enjoy it, I just do.



Sunday, August 31, 2014

Why can't we be friends?

Once I step outside my door and into the real world, things get muddy. You see, I try to keep a clean house and an open mind. But of course I can from my perch on the tree fort in the woods. Hell, I have lived here almost 3 years and I have never even had a conversation with my abutter neighbors. Shows you how much I really care anymore. Perceptions baby, it's all about the perceptions. Not sure if it was when we started dressing our naked found art sculpture or I could be heard blaring Erika Badu from my Bose speaker while I hung our semi-clean laundry from our strung straight across the m-f lawn clothesline. In all honesty it was likely that damn Dixie rescue dog. Sweet, sweet bear who became unbearable to all in this exclusive wooded neighborhood as she bounded across first one 2 acre electric fence boundary, then also the added shock collar, and finally out of the 1/2 acre fenced pen as well. It was 3 strikes and you're out, but by that time the damage was done. Even the one nice retired Boston area lady screamed at me in the end. So goodbye to you my untrustworthy canine friend. 

I can see it in my case, but I can't in others. I'm talking about all the seeming insanity that has been swirling around as of late. Headlines of unrest, killings, killings, bombings, and did I mention killings yet? Here, there, everywhere. What the heck is up folks?

So for this years walk-about I was limited. Money, energy, ability. But I just had to get out of dodge, my skin was beginning to itch so bad I couldn't stand it. I found a sweet deal at an off time in a special place, and headed for Central NY to look at the Northeastern Rust Belt. I had completed my yearly bag project and had looked up economically depressed areas that were similar in scope to the poverty seen and experienced in my world as a lad from Spfld., MA. I had it narrowed down to these two:

Thea Bowman House Utica, NY is a non profit agency serving low-income, at-risk children and families in and around the city of Utica. They provide quality care to some of our community's most vulnerable children and youth in the hope of breaking the cycle of poverty through a structured program of educational and social enrichment. Their mission is to provide a safe, nurturing environment to enable culturally diverse children and families achieve their full potential. The foundation of which Thea Bowman House is built is Agape, unconditional love. 

Syracuse Northeast Community Center

Under our roof, everyone is welcome! 
In 1978, the Syracuse Northeast Community Center began. It has provided a diversity of services to the residents and families of Syracuse’s northeast quadrant. The relationship between the Center and the community has paid continuous dividends as the SNCC follows its mission to serve the health, social, economic, recreational and crisis intervention needs of area residents. They have services for Developing Youth, Supporting Seniors, Stabilizing Families, Health Education + Access, and Community Connections.
Both places looked to be great community centers, but Thea Bowman works mainly with children, while SNCC is a comprehensive community center, so I chose them. I can't tell you how much I enjoyed delivering the bags, meeting and talking with the folks there, and getting a tour of the center. We shared a few laughs, and a few sighs as we bemoaned the loss of $$$ to assist those in the community who need help the most. 
Beyond this task, I was free to be. So I roamed around talking to people, listening to people, and learning about their communities. What struck me as I returned and rejoined the fb and news world was how some communities can get along and some can't. 
Interesting to me and maybe not to you was the comparison of communities in Central and North Central NY. Pictorially these are the things that gather, as well as divide communities. 
These folks are an enigma to me.  They may not be overly effusive with talk, but they definitely were not hostile, and as the sign shows, they have found a way to coexist with their fellow farmers. I did not know and learned though, that the Amish have diversity even amongst their small groups. The diversity of settlement in this area, includes Old Order, Swartzentruber, Byler, and Andy Weaver Amish. The Amish of these varying communities, spread across the state, come from a variety of different backgrounds and follow widely differing Ordnungs.   Diversity has implications for life within Amish society.  The closeness of one community’s Ordnung to that of another may dictate whether two Amish groups interact.

 This church was found on the North side of Syracuse. I also knew little of what C.O.G.I.C. was nor if Bread of Life was a single slice or part of a whole loaf. Turns out that it stands for Church of God in Christ. However, there are 6 different denominations of this Pentecostal type of religion. It is the largest Pentecostal denomination in the United States. The membership is predominantly African-American with more than six million members. The Church has congregations in 63 countries around the world. Doesn't sound very warm and open and inviting to me. 


 
This Mosque is the Bosnian Islamic Association of Utica. Here is a good article about this church: http://www.uticaod.com/article/20120903/News/309039954
It's hard to imagine fleeing your country b/c of war, but that's what this small population of Bosnian folks did in the early 1990's. Anyone remember the Balkan War? Well the Mohawk Valley Resource Center for Refugees welcomed more than 1,000 Bosnians.

 Next up is St. John of Kronstadt Russian Orthodox Memorial Church, located at 1009 Conkling Avenue in Utica, NY The parish of ST. John of Kronstadt in Utica, New York, which was founded in 1953, was the very first church in the world consecrated to the  blessed memory of the prodigal saint Father John of Kronstadt in Russia. Apparently the Russian emigre's from this region established a memorial fund for the sole purpose of preservation of this one pastor's memory, hence the name of the church. This married priest, born in North Russia in 1829 was like an ordinary dude. He suffered from depression, was undecided of his future, had a dream, became a priest and married a priest's daughter, then got his dream church. The description of the town sounds awfully similar to Utica: The city of Kronstadt was the place to which criminals from St. Petersburg were routinely deported and as a port city it was teeming with sailors, unskilled workers working the docks and crowds of homeless people living in shacks and dugouts around the city. But this St. John seems like he was a good dooby. In 1873 he opened a House of Industry consisting of a number of workshops, a dormitory, a dining area, a health clinic, library, and an elementary school. Here the poor were not simply given hand-outs but were helped to rise out of their poverty by learning a trade and receiving an education. The orthodox part is mind-numbing to me in all its complexities, but this St. John dude sounds pretty alright to me.
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus is a Catholic parish church and minor basilica in SyracuseNew York. I actually sought this one out as it was part of my research on the Polish population in the Syracuse area. This church is located in Westside Syracuse which had a large Polish population in 1910 when the church was built (and a cool feature= One stained glass window depicts Polish saint Maximilian Kolbe, who died at Auschwitz), and still has a Polish presence in the neighborhood, although it (the neighborhood, not sure about the church) is more mixed now. In fact, the parish school was closed in 2002 and is now a public charter school. Still in the neighborhood and oddly surrounding the church are several small pubs and cafe's.
And while in the West side Polish neighborhood in Syracuse you could look over to an adjacent neighborhood and see St. John the Baptist Ukrainian Catholic Church. My mind is boggled by the name of the church (like how can you have Baptist + Catholic in the same title?), but the history of the folks who helped found it is very interesting: http://www.stjohnbaptistucc.com/History  
I found that overall, Syracuse, much like Spfld, MA has very distinct and separate neighborhoods which still exists in separatist ways. Utica however, had much more mixing/mixed neighborhoods. There still is a small Polish neighborhood near the large church found near downtown Utica.
Holy Trinity Catholic Church 1206 Lincoln Ave. Utica approximate date 1910
This church looks very similar to the one in Syracuse. The official name tells you something about the shift in numbers of parishioners (although not really about the Polish population in the area specifically): Holy Trinity Church with merger of St. Stanislaus, Bishop & Martyr Parish, The Mother Church Polonia in Central New York. The history of the St. Stanislaus Society formed near the turn of the 20th century tells a lot about the immigrant population then and their desire to preserve their national identity and culture (and also about the divisions that happened within the Polish community in US based on the geography of where in Poland the immigrants came from (people are so strange).
In Utica though the Polish pride went a bit further. I found it oddly compelling when I found this:


                        Now I personally know this dude NEVER stepped foot in America, and that even if he did, the USA as we know it didn't exist in the 1500's, yet there he proudly stands in memorial on Utica soil! 










Finally, a rather bizarre showing of the mixing that oft happens in communities was perfectly illustrated in a political sign posted right next to the Copernicus statue:
This one boggled my brain. If you look up the last name Stanislaus, you get immigration records showing all Eastern European countries of origin, and when you google image you only get Anglo Karen's until you reach Bernadette Stanislaus of Hollywood fame as JJ Walker's sister (remember Jimmy Walker/Good Times?) who grew up in Brooklyn in the 50's + 60's. Where oh where did Karen and Bernadette get that last name? I shall never know, but I can pretend I know that there was a cross-over relationship that created a mixture like most of us 2nd, 3rd, and on generations. 
So yes communities, especially immigrant ones created during the vast and rapid industrialization of this country in 1800's thru early 1900's set up small enclaves to preserve nationality and culture. But being as this is the great melting pot and capitalist nation, over time we all have had to learn to play in the giant US sandbox together. Some do it better than others, that's all.

Recently, on facebook these two tidbits came thru and I now share with you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EguZiCmsEw

A fine example of a not playing well in the sandbox.

http://thinkprogress.org/election/2014/08/29/3476349/does-your-church-dictate-your-politics/

And then a little food for thought on religion and politics. If you're hungry, then eat it up!